Souls Cast Upon an Angry Sea  

 

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Prasat Nyat Pen

Trapped is the adjective you use to describe the feeling of being caught on a ship during a storm at sea. As the ship pitches and tosses you run from bow to stern, making sure that all of the gear is lashed down, and praying that the watertight integrity has not been breached. The deck rises to meet you, and you suddenly find yourself running uphill. Next, the earth drops away beneath you, and you are falling into a profound chasm. The deck shoots up again, and you collide with bone-jarring force.

Water washes over the deck. The pitch is more violent now. The stern is submerged and the bow is lost, somewhere in the black sky. Next, the bow crashes down below the waterline, its pointed arrow aimed directly at the watery hell it will surely take you to. The stern is behind you now, its massive weight driving the wedge home. Forgetting where you are going or what you were doing, you collapse on the deck, ambivalent to this deadly game of seesaw. Powerful tidal waves form, gathering moment as they run the length of the deck. One knocks you down. Caught in the undertow you are dragged almost off the stern, but the boat pitches again, tossing you in the air. Your once proud boat is now the plaything of the sea, like a seal cub being toyed with by killer whales. And you and all the other passengers are the least significant objects in the universe.  

It finally happens, a wave catches you from the port side and drops into the ocean to starboard. The storm carries you away. With each peak and trough of the waves, less and less of the boat can be seen. The other passengers are in the water, struggling for their lives. Periodically they are sucked under and then thrown back up by the hungry ocean. Occasionally they go down and stay down. Your lungs are full of brackish water. You hack, cough, and vomit. Calling upon the dead spirits of your parents and grandparents, you silently pray to your ancestors to protect you.  You beg the Buddha for favor. 

If you could only reach the island a mere three hundred meters away, you would be safe. But you have no control over your motion and almost no energy left. 

Suddenly, the Buddha comes, in the form of a winged horse. He plucks the suffering people from the water, and deposits them safely upon the island.

You collapse on your belly, and give a prayer of thanks.

This is the legend which is recreated at the temple of Prasat Nyat Pen. The temple consists of a large central pool, surrounded by four smaller pools.

In the center of the central pool I an island, bearing a stupa, honoring the Buddha. Swimming to the island is a massive stone horse, with the figures of the shipwreck victims gratefully holding on.

Samban explains that years ago there was actually a spring which fed the large pool. But today, it is replenished only by rainwater. Spring water or rain water, because the water is collected at the sacred site, the water become holy water. Visitors are invited to walk on the stone bridge and climb upon the stupa. You can also visit the flying horse Buddha, but sadly, his wings have been stolen by treasure hunters.

If you climb down the stonework of the lesser pools, you will find a stone chamber, with a bas-relief of a mythical animal. Inside the chamber of the first lesser pool, there is a bas-relief of an elephant, whose trunk is a waterspout. In former times, people come to sit upon the stone statues of the footprint of Buddha and the sacred lotus blossom. Lotus blossoms were once used to purify the way upon which the Buddha would walk. The devotes sat upon the holy relics, and the monks purified them by releasing holy water from the elephant.

The people believed that the sacred water would wash away their sorrows. Explained Samban

Seeing Prasat Nyat Pen I realized that in addition to spending a week to see all of Angkor Wat, you could easily spend a month getting to know Siem Reap.

Contact the author at: antonio_graceffo@hotmail.com

You can reach Long Leng of Phnom Penh Tours at sales@phnompenhtours.com
 

 
 
 
 
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