The War Museum in Siem Reap

 

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By Antonio Graceffo

 

Every human heart wrestles with its attraction to and its repulsion of the horrible. If this weren’t the case, there would be no horror movies and no splatter films. If we didn’t have a love affair with the terrifying there would be no roller-coasters. And so it is in Cambodia, where the remnants of war and atrocity can be found, and are even being converted into tourist attractions.  

In the large, overgrown field behind the Siem Reap War Museum, you will find a collection of heavy weapons and war machines, most of which were Soviet made, and came to Cambodia as gifts from Vietnam. They have a T-54 Russian tank, massive Soviet anti-aircraft guns, which never saw action because the Khmer Rouge didn’t have airplanes, and an M58 Armored Personnel carrier.  

Lon Nol had received most of his support and weaponry from the US. So, I asked my guide, Mr. Sinit, a long time soldier of several regimes, where all of those weapons were.  

“Recycled.” Said my guide, bluntly. “Most of the American stuff was made of aluminum. It was very valuable, so the villagers cut it up and sold it.”  

But the Russian weapons were all made of iron. They survived until today, although they showed advanced degrees of decomposition, as a result of years of neglect in a tropical climate.  

Just like the ancient royal palaces of Cambodi,a which were made of wood, today not a single piece remains. Probably the beautifully lacquered walls of the king’s house were used to stop the rain from washing into some poor farmer’s hut. Planks of royal lumber most likely found its way into a cooking fire as well. Much of the history of Cambodia has simply been washed off of the jungle landscape. A war heritage is not necessarily something to be proud of. But in a way, having a few old relics, downed airplanes, sunken ships or disabled armor pieces lets you know that your people once existed.

They lived, loved, fought, and died on a battle filed which is now a rice farm. But in Cambodia, almost no hardware is left from the many years of war. Most of the souvenirs are the sad, walking kind, people maimed and dispossessed by a war they wish had never happened.

Cambodia is at once a country mired in its past, and a country without a past. 

Large-scale European style engagements, between uniformed armies, supported by artillery and airplanes just weren’t common in the Cambodian wars. For me the small arms exhibits were much more authentic, and more telling of the horrors of war. 

There was a display showing how explosives were made from fertilizer and sugar. Nails were added, as shrapnel. There were numerous variations of the AK-47, the standard Russian military weapon. Sinat told me that most of the ones on display at the museum were actually Chinese copies of the famous Russian weapons. They were manufactured in China, and donated to the Khmer Rouge. Most were smuggled through Thailand into Cambodia. There was a Chinese Rocket launcher made entirely of PVC pipe. It was less than half a meter in length, and looked very dangerous.  

“That one made you deaf for forty minutes.” Said Sinit. “The back-blast was also very big, and you had to clear a big area behind you before you fired it.” Because of the small design of the weapon, Sinit explained that many soldiers tried to fire it from the hip, as they would a shotgun. “Burned alive.” He told me, sadly.

At the same time that China was supporting the Khmer Rouge, the US was giving weapons to Lon Nol’s republican army, who was fighting the communists. The US may or may not have known, but corrupt Lon Nol officials were reselling the weapons to the Khmer Rouge. So, American weapons were used on both sides of the war.  

For a former American GI, the small arms display was like a walk through American history. They had a few Vietnam era M-16s and M-14s. I found an M-79 grenade launcher and a PRC 77 platoon radio, and a collapsible entrenching tool. Apparently the America just dumped their surplus Korean War weapons on the new regime. They had a Korean War era .30 Cal, also, M1 Grand, M1 carbine, and grease. There were US gas masks from WWII. Going further back, there were weapons predating WWII. I found several BAR (Browning Automatic Rifle). The best find of all was an old style, gangster era Tommy Gun, complete with pistol grip and snail-drum.

“I carried a BAR for a while.” Said Sinat. “It was a good weapon.”

How many American soldiers today would even recognize a BAR, much less tell about taking one into combat?  

Mr. Sinat was a prime example of the horrors of war, and the years of suffering which Cambodia is struggling to emerge from. Blind in one-eye, Sinat told me the doctors expected him to become completely blind in a few months time. Sinat pulled up his shirt and showed me three hug scars, where he had been hit by AK-47 rounds. Sinat bore additional scars from where a friend fired a rocket, without first clearing the back-blast area. Sinat’s whole body had been engulfed in flames. 

“I also have grenade shrapnel in my behind.” Said Sinat. It would have been comical if Sinat’s life weren’t so tragic. “My friend and I were fishing with hand-grenades. I threw a grenade into the water, but it didn’t go off.” 

So, the friend fished out the grenade, and explained to Sinit that he had to pull the pin first. “My friend pulled the pin, he threw the pin in the water, not the grenade.” Sinit turned away, just as the grenade went off.

Sinit was permanently injured. The friend was dead.

Sinat’s story illustrates the difficulties faced by a nation torn by war, where two entire generations missed out on even the most basic education.

Sinat’s whole family had been killed by the Khmer Rouge. He joined the army at age 13.

“I didn’t care about fighting. I just needed food and clothing.” He confessed.

His wife died two years ago, and now he was completely alone in the world.

Sinit was born the same year as me, 1967. When he joined the army, I was on my high school swim team. Sinit never went to school. I used my GI benefit to finance my college education, and eventually got the opportunity to travel and study all over the world.

“I’ve only been abroad once.” Said Sinit. “A few years ago, I was completely blind. An NGO took me to Bangkok for medical treatment.”

“What did you think of Thailand?” I asked.

“I didn’t see anything.”

“Why not?”

“because I was blind.” He said simply. He should have said, “because I was blind, dummy.” Because that was how I felt.

“I was a beggar for several years.” He told me.

A few months earlier, my friend, Mr. Samban, form Phnom Penh Tours was instrumental in arranging this job as museum caretaker, for Mr. Sinit. “Now he can get some tips from the tourists.” Explained Samban. The problem was, there just aren’t that many tourists at the museum.

American soldiers are used to being well funded and well equipped. But the Cambodian soldiers had to be very creative in arming themselves. The museum had a few ox carts, which were used as caissons, to carry ammunition to the front. Sinit showed me how they fired rockets without a rocket launcher.

First they built a stand of crisscrossed bamboo posts. Then they laid the rocket on the stand, and used a batter to detonate the firing pin. Another piece of homemade ordnance comprised of a light bulb, with a small hole drilled in it. The light bulb would be filled with gunpowder. Nails would be packed in around the light bulb. When a battery was connected to the light bulb, the filament would spark, detonating the gunpowder. The bomb would explode, throwing nails in every direction.

The most terrible display was the landmines. This was also the most personal for Sinit, who had lost hi leg to a Vietnamese mine. “I heard the mine click, when I stepped on it. I looked down. When my leg exploded, my own bones became shrapnel, making me blind.”

The display contained an array of landmines, horrible devices designed to maim, rather than kill. An army is much more likely to try and remove a wounded soldier from the battlefield, than a corpse. It requires two men to carry one injured person. So, by wounding one man, you have removed two or three from combat. Later, doctors and medical supplies will be used to treat the amputation, further exhausting the army’s resources.

Sinit showed me an amputation mine, a wooden box filled with TNT. The detonator stuck out, between the lid and the box. When someone stepped on the lid, it caused the detonator to explode, setting off the explosive.

Another improvised mine consisted of a mortar round, buried just below the surface of the road, upside down. A board with a nail driven through it was laid on the firing pin of the mortar shell. The board was then camouflaged with dirt and leaves. When someone stepped on top the board, the nail pierced the firing pin, and the mortar round exploded.

After showing me the weapons themselves, Sinit showed me hundreds of photos of modern land mine victims. “They all lost limbs, just like me.” Said Sinit. “But no one cares abut us.” For his nearly twenty years of military service, all of which was spent in combat, Sinit receives a pension of zero dollars and zero cents. For his injuries, he receives a disability payment of the same amount. And a few months from now, when he finally goes completely blind, at age thirty-eight, he will receive nothing. Even worse, he will lose his job at the museum, and hav no income at all.

“Now, I have no money for food.” Said Sinit. “I live in a temple. After I am completely blind, I don’t know what I will do.” Sinit shook his head sadly.

“The government doesn’t care about us.”

Contact the author at: antonio_graceffo@hotmail.com

You can reach Long Leng of Phnom Penh Tours at
sales@phnompenhtours.com
www.phnompenhtours.com 

You can find all of Antonio’s books at amazon.com
 

 
 
 

 

         
 
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